The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Gardens

Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds form.

This is perhaps the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However one local grower has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with round mauve berries on a sprawling garden plot situated between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above Bristol town centre.

"I've seen people hiding heroin or other items in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."

The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He's organized a informal group of cultivators who produce wine from several discreet urban vineyards nestled in private yards and community plots throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to have an official name yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.

City Vineyards Across the World

To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which features more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of Paris's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and over three thousand vines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them all over the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Grape gardens assist urban areas remain greener and more diverse. These spaces protect land from construction by establishing long-term, productive agricultural units within cities," explains the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a product of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, community, environment and heritage of a city," adds the president.

Mystery Polish Variety

Back in the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the rain arrives, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast once more. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he says, as he cleans damaged and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Efforts Across Bristol

Additional participants of the group are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of vintage from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from about 50 vines. "I adore the aroma of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a basket of grapes resting on her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the car windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her family in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they can keep cultivating from this land."

Sloping Vineyards and Natural Production

A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established more than 150 vines situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a city street."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is picking clusters of dusty purple dark berries from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the help of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than £7 a glass in the growing number of establishments specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually make quality, natural wine," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's reviving an traditional method of producing wine."

"When I tread the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to kill the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown culture."

Difficult Conditions and Inventive Approaches

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to plant her vines, has assembled his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole challenge faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to erect a fence on

Brooke Dixon
Brooke Dixon

Elara is a seasoned journalist and cultural critic with a passion for uncovering stories that connect communities across the globe.

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